The Auld Manse of New Abbey
1723 - 2016
Stuart J McCulloch
The Auld Manse, situated prominently on ‘manse corner ‘in the heart of the village of New Abbey has snuggled up close to the magnificent ruins of the 13th century Sweetheart Abbey for over 300 years. The house, which belonged to the Church of Scotland until 2009, has been the continual residence of all the ministers of New Abbey since 1727 and thus it is possible to trace all the occupants of the house since that date. This short history aims to tell their story.
At the turn of the 18th century New Abbey was experiencing significant change. The original village had stood on the shores of Loch Kindar to the south of the current settlement and the original parish church had been built on an artificial island in the loch. Nearby Sweetheart Abbey, built in 1273, was a working Cistercian Abbey until the Scottish Reformation. Without political support the monks became unable to maintain the buildings or continue with their agricultural and commercial activities and so gradually the Abbey and outliers fell into disrepair becoming little more than a source of fine building stone for houses which were springing up nearby. As the centre of population moved towards the Abbey the original parish church fell into disuse, and its functions were conducted in the old Abbey refectory. When William Irvine arrived as the new minister following the death of the Rev. John Nisbet in 1725, he petitioned the Kirk Session for a new Church and Manse closer to the heart of the changing village. He was obviously successful because in 1727 the Kirk Session spent £107 on the building of a new Manse for the Minister to the south of the Abbey, utilising the foundations and stones from the now demolished refectory and southern cloisters. This was followed in 1731 by the construction of a new Parish Church, built close to the Manse on the south side of the now ruined Abbey.
This is the oldest known picture to show the Manse. The old Parish Church and the Schoolhouse, situated between the Manse and the Abbey, also feature prominently.
The glebe associated with the new Manse ran to 10.5 acres; 4 acres within Abbey precincts and 6.5 acres up by old parochial church on Loch Kindar.
The new minister, the Rev. William Irvine, was probably the son of the Rev. William Irvine, the former minister of Kirkmichael. Father was described as “of a forward and fiery temper, rough and blustering.”He was a staunch Jacobite who had preached to “Bonnie Dundee” before the battle of Killiecrankie and had been imprisoned (and escaped) from both Dundee and Fleet, London. Jacobite leanings would normally have been of a considerable hindrance for a ministry in the Scottish Presbyterian church at that time. However, it was suspected that the influential Stewart of Shambellie family had Jacobite sympathies and would perhaps have not objected to the new minister, even though his father was notorious for his Jacobite leanings. The Rev William Irvine remained the minister of the parish until 1768 when he died, aged 75.
Enter William Wright; minister, conservationist and educator. For the Reverend William Wright entering the ministry was easier than entering the village. When he was appointed to the parish of New Abbey he suspected that a hostile reception awaited him, so when in early May 1769 he and his family (wife Jean and sons James aged 5 and Robert aged 2) made their way to the village to take up their new appointment, he made sure that they were accompanied by a squad of soldiers.
He needed them. At the March Burn, just south of Martingirth, they were intercepted by an angry stone-throwing mob but a passage into the village was forced and entry to the Manse was accompanied without bloodshed. However, it was an inauspicious start to a new career. The issue arousing so much anger was the means by which William Wright was appointed to the ministry in the first place and was not a problem of the parishioners with the Reverend Wright himself. The dispute revolved around the concept of patronage and who should appoint the minister of the parish. The minister of the parish was a very important appointment, with the local church playing the leading role in many aspect of the everyday life and death of the parishioners. Patronage in the selection of a new minister was well established, with the Patronage being sought from the King, one of the universities, a town or burgh Council or a large local landowner. During the Scottish Reformation, the ‘First Book of Discipline’ (1560) and the ‘Second Book of Discipline’ (1578) both stipulated that Ministers should be chosen by their congregations, but this never became law and the aristocratic hold on influence and power remained. The Church of Scotland, through the General Assembly, protested against this patronage almost every year and some members became very militant. Feelings ran high and many disputed appointments saw popular demonstrations of discontent and, in some cases, violence. This was the background to the protest in New Abbey, with the unfortunate and bewildered William Wright on the receiving end.
Gradually the Rev William Wright became more accepted by the village.His two sons were joined by two daughters (Jean in March 1760 and Cecilia Ann in 1763) and the Rev. William found time to critically examine his surroundings. He had become increasingly concerned about the apparent Abbey demolition site that he could see from the windows of his Manse and he feared that the Abbey itself was in grave danger of disappearing. William Newall and William McNish, local businessmen who owned the Abbey, had for some years been steadily demolishing the buildings to sell the stones, which they then used for the construction of new houses along the current Main Street. The minister did his own reputation no harm at all when he persuaded the local heritors to take action. Under his leadership a public appeal was launched to prevent the demolition of the main Abbey building and, following payment of the sum of £42.00, an agreement was reached with Newall and McNish which stopped the Abbey from any further demolition. The remains of Sweetheart Abbey, and its impressive remaining boundary wall with its huge dressed granite boulders, were thus saved and visitors today still enjoy the very same views.
William Wright had a formidable intellect. He had been employed in the public school at Annan, Dumfriesshire, where he enjoyed considerable teaching success and arrived with a strong reputation for scholarship. He became the educator of the Shambellie Stewart children and very successfully tutored William’s sons, James, William and Charles (who with their problems at school would prove a sore trial for any pedagogue).
Having saved the remains of Sweetheart Abbey for posterity the Rev. Wright turned his attention to his own home. The Manse was too small for his family and his frequent tutees so he petitioned the Kirk Session for a new Manse.In 1802 the old Manse was virtually rebuilt on the same site and it forms the main core of the current house. The building situated within the Abbey precincts had enjoyed continuity of use over many hundreds of years and is thus a potentially valuable archaeological site. It comprised of 2 storeys and attic with three bays. The house is unusually deep with 3 windows to the south gable. The water supply was from the prominent well to the north of the house, and this probably utilised the existing mediaeval well which had served the monks of the Abbey for hundreds of years.
In 1781 the American War of Independence threatened the stability and existence of the British colony of Florida and a three year old boy, James Murray, was evacuated and was brought to New Abbey. He was to grow up in the village and was soon joined by his adopted sisters, Harriet, Louisa and Theresa. James’ mother was Eliza Smith nee Eliza Stewart, probable daughter of Charles Stewart of Shambellie. The connections with the Manse were strong. After an action-packed life James Murray, now Captain James Murray RN, returned to New Abbey and the Manse, then the home of his sister Harriet. He lived his final years here, dying in the Manse on Thursday the 29th May 1834, aged just 56 years and is commemorated by a large headstone in the Sweetheart Abbey Burial Ground. His life is fully documented in the book ‘Scion of Heroes’, published in 2015.
Sister Harriet was the only one of James’ three sisters to remain in New Abbey. In 1813 a new minister, The Reverend James Hamilton, had taken up his post in the village and was living in the New Abbey Manse alongside the old and now frail Rev. William Wright, and in all likelihood, the thirty-two year old Harriet Smith. Just four years later Harriet Smith married the Reverend James Hamilton, the ceremony almost certainly taking place in the Manse itself.
The elderly Rev. William Wright was not quite ready to fade off the scene and in 1816, energy undiminished, he organised and led a campaign to celebrate the British victory at the Battle of Waterloo. He organised a fund and badgered all to make a financial contribution, with the result that the imposing Waterloo Monument was built and today it still dominates the skyline above the village of New Abbey.
The newly married James Hamilton and Harriet Smith lived in the Manse with the Rev. William remaining in the house with them until his death there in 1819, aged 87. The house saw joy as well as sadness, as just before William Wright died another high profile marriage took place in the house. The remarkable 59 year old William Stewart of Shambellie married for a third time, this time to 18 year old Bethia Donaldson. They were to go on to have at least ten more children to add to his previous sixteen.
The Rev. James Hamilton, now minister of the parish, hailed from a prominent Dumfriesshire family. They boasted of a proud covenanting background and Archibald, James’ elder brother, had served alongside Robert Burns in the Dumfriesshire Yeomanry, riding side by side with him on many occasions. James himself had the honour of being one of the squad who fired a salute over the poet’s grave at his formal burial cemetery in St Michael’s churchyard, Dumfries, in July 1796. James and Harriet went on to have two children, James Murray and Louisa, named after Harriet’s brother and sister respectively.
The larger family and the frequent visitors had the Manse groaning at the seams so in 1821 a northern extension, including a new kitchen block and servant’s accommodation, was added. At that time the glebe associated with the Manse extended to 10.5 acres and provided the fresh produce needed for an expanding household.
In 1849 Harriet passed away and the Rev. James was alone in the house apart from his two servants Nicholas Black, 34, and Barbara Ell, 23. James’ brother, Archibald, was the maternal grandfather of Archibald Hamilton Charteris, and on the death of the Rev. James in 1859 Archibald Hamilton Charteris succeeded him as the new parish minister. He was only to stay in the Manse for a few years but he quickly made his name as a leading voice for Church reform. He would later move on to become Professor of Biblical Criticism at the University of Edinburgh and in 1892 he was appointed the Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. Further honours came in 1901 when he was appointed Chaplain-in-Ordinary in Scotland to King Edward VII. Archibald founded the ‘Life and Work’ magazine in 1879 and is also credited as being the father of the Woman's Guild, still an important organisation today.
The next minister was to make an equally substantial impact on the New Abbey community. The thirty year old James Stewart Wilson was ordained as Parish Minister of New Abbey on 24th Sept. 1863 and was to remain living in the Manse and continue as minister of the parish until his death on 14th Nov. 1910. James and his wife Jane Ewing Wilson brought up five children; Charles (b. 1865), Margaret (b. 1866), Jane (b. 1868), Mary (b. 1873) and Isabella (b. 1876). By 1871 census returns demonstrate that the busy Manse had expanded the domestic staff. Living in the house and described as ‘servants’ were Margaret Henderson (29), Margaret Crawford (20) and Nicholas Beattie (25), also assisted by Nicholas’ sister, Margaret.By 1881 the servants had changed and the whole household had become more organised. A German governess, Antonie Link (23), looked after the children whilst Agnes Kirkpatrick (34) was the cook, Janet McDill (22) was the laundress and assisting them all was Isabella Adams (30), a general maid. By 1901 the jobs had remained the same but the personnel had moved on with Marie McCrone (27) as Cook, Janet Kerr (20) as Housemaid and Agnes McCrone, (20) taking on the laundry maid role.
The larger number of occupants of the Manse necessitated some structural change, the most notable and welcome being the building of the two storey toilet block to the rear centre of the house. Also constructed at a similar period was the granite porch to the front of the building.
In addition to his parish responsibilities, James Stewart Wilson was also invited to take on the role of a part-time lecturer in Pastoral Theology at several Scottish Universities between 1879 - 80 and 1899 - 1900. His work was much appreciated by the students and his lectures were later published in two volumes; “Life, Education and the Wider Culture of Christian Ministry” (Edinburgh 1881) and “Ministerial Life and Work”, (Edinburgh 1901).
The children of James and Jane were also to make their mark. Their only son, Charles, grew up in the Manse although he did go to boarding school in Edinburgh for his secondary education. Following his undergraduate years at University College, London, he was called to the Bar at the Middle Temple in 1886 and later entered the Indian Civil Service. Ultimately he rose to become the Director- General of the Post Office in India and during the First World War he served as the Assistant Secretary for the Minister of Munitions. He was later knighted for his service to the nation and became Sir Charles Stewart-Wilson K.C.I.E.
Charles’ best friend at school and a very frequent visitor to the Manse in the school holidays was William Affleck Scott. William was to achieve prominence for his work in promoting and establishing the Scottish Presbyterian Church in Malawi. He was to achieve further posthumous distinction in 1896 when Henry Rankine published his biography; a volume entitled “A Hero of the Dark Continent. A Memoir of Rev. William Affleck Scott.” Tales of William’s frequent visits to New Abbey to visit his friend are many, such as the schoolboy William, whilst staying at the Manse with Charles, decided to build a theodolite. The two boys then took their home-made and very heavy gadget to the top of Criffel, whereupon they proceeded to calculate its height. The schoolboys calculated it to within 18 feet of the now agreed height of 1867 feet.
William’s calling was to the ministry and when the opportunity arose he enthusiastically took up the post of missionary in what is now Malawi. However, his time in the Manse was not forgotten. On 10th November 1892 he married Margaret Stewart-Wilson, the younger sister of his school friend Charles. Their first and only child, Marianne, was born on 24th March 1894. For health reasons Margaret and baby Marianne returned home from Malawi to the Manse but tragically they were not to see William again. William succumbed to fever in Malawi and died less than a year later. He is commemorated in a memorial window in the Presbyterian Church of Blantyre, Malawi, a church which he described as ‘a smaller version of Sweetheart Abbey’. Margaret and Marianne thus continued to live in the Manse for many more years.
Margaret’s older sister Jane also grew up in the Manse and continued to spend large periods of her adult life in the village. Jane Ewing Wilson was born in 1868 and had a most enterprising life. She successfully graduated from the only Cambridge College to admit females, namely Girton College, and in 1899 she married Robert Kerr Hannay. Robert Kerr Hannay (1867 – 1940) was to become a Professor of Scottish History in the University of Edinburgh and later became the Historiographer Royal for Scotland. Jane however was not just the dutiful wife. She forged an independent career, firstly as a teacher and latterly as a well-known campaigner for women’s employment and welfare. She became a Justice of the Peace and achieved national recognition for her activities during World War One where she initiated and organised Volunteer Woman’s Patrols (the forerunner of the female police service). She was rewarded for her tireless activity with a CBE. Both Jane and her husband are buried nearby in the Sweetheart Abbey Burial Ground, as is Jane’s mother, father and grandfather.
For New Abbey the most significant material change during the ministry of Stewart-Wilson was the erection of the current church. Although the existing church adjacent to the Manse had been improved and enlarged in 1805 and contained 470 seats by the middle of the century it was nevertheless deemed not fit for purpose. Following campaigning by Stewart Wilson and his parishioners the new parish church was built over the road on land given to the village by the Oswald family. This fine church, built in 1876-7 by James Barbour of Dumfries contains a stained glass window, dating from 1915, which was designed by William Morris from a Burne-Jones drawing. The window is in memory of James Stewart Wilson and his Jane, his wife.
Succeeding Stewart Wilson in February 1911 was John Murray Woodburn, moving on from his post as an assistant at St. Giles in Edinburgh. He was to lead the village through the traumatic years of World War One before taking up a new post at Beith in Ayrshire.
The Manse continued to be the residence for the ministers of New Abbey and their families. A further nine ministers and their families occupied the house, namely, William Sutherland (1921-1926), Robert Paisley (1927-1929), George Duncan (1929-1933), Robert Dollar (1933-1938), James Crabb (1938-1947), Ian Forbes (1947-1952), William Campbell (1952 –1964), John MacDonald (1964-1971), and lastly William Holland who served for 37 years from 1971 until his retirement in April 2009 . The house lay empty for a period until the Church of Scotland decided to sell. Under its new guise as ‘The Auld Manse’ it has since been fully renovated by its first private buyer and returned to its Georgian origins
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Artefacts and Historical Curiosities
There are a number of carved stones, found on the boundary wall with the Abbey and on the patio to the rear of the building. Most of these stones were brought from elsewhere and used in the wall construction. The most likely source is the Abbey itself, where for almost two hundred years the stones of the Abbey were used as a building supply for many of the older houses in the village. The oldest carving, standing proud from a shaped and dressed sandstone block, bears the date of 1698 and thus predates the Manse. It is found as part of the lintel above the gateway to the rear garden.
Initials also feature prominently. The best example is found on the boundary wall to the right of the garden gate.
This flat stone shows a series of dates and initials. It has been possible to identify some of the named persona. William Murray refers to the Reverend William Murray, who was a preacher in the nearby parish of Kirkbean. His memorial inscription in Kirkbean churchyard reads
“In memory of The Reverend William Murray, Teacher in Kirkbean for 51 years, who died 11th Dec. 1857 in his 78th year”.
As a teacher it is likely that he was employed to teach some of the New Abbey children who perhaps did not wish to use the parochial school. J.M.H. refers to James Murray Hamilton, the son of the Rev. James Hamilton and his wife Harriet. The boy is named after Captain James Murray RN, who was the brother of Harriet. E.A. Wood refers to Elizabeth Alice Wood, the daughter of Theresa Wood, another sister of Captain James Murray. G. (George) McNeill was a young boy who was born in South Carolina in 1815 and may have come to Scotland as a result of the British-American war of that year. He demonstrates the close connection between the family of Captain James Murray and the southern American states and is remembered by his memorial stone near to that of Captain James Murray in the Sweetheart Abbey burial ground next door. George William Johnson, T.S., William Jones and J.M.N. are as yet unidentified. The date of 27 October 1826 would add circumstantial evidence to the suggestion that these young people were schooled in the Manse by William Murray and perhaps the carvings represented a summer day’s schoolwork in the Manse garden.
This broken quern stone was found in the front garden of the Manse.
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Quern-stones are stone tools for hand-grinding a wide variety of materials. They were first used in the Neolithic period to grind cereals into flour and were still in use in Scotland in the 19th century.
This stone was found to the rear of the house lying flat, a few centimetres below the current lawn level. It is likely to be the grave of a dog named POMPEY (no remains were found). It is intriguing to surmise that this could have been the pet dog of Captain James Murray. Letters indicate that James did have a dog. Furthermore, the name POMPEY was, and still is, the slang term used for Portsmouth, the premier naval base in Britain at that time, and a port James knew very well.
Perhaps the most intriguing carving is that of rose.
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This was found carved into a huge block of sandstone which lay upside down covering the opening of the ancient well. Initially this six-petalled rose was thought to mirror the rose found carved on the wall of Rosewall House in the Main Street of New Abbey, and was believed to be associated with the Cistercians who lived and worked in the nearby Abbey. As there is no evidence of a connection between a rose and the Cistercians another theory has been promulgated. The white rose was the symbol of the Jacobites, supporters of the exiled Stewart kings of Scotland. For many years it was dangerous to show support for the Jacobite cause and a number of symbols were used to demostrate ‘secret’ patronage. Some prominent local Jacobites (e.g. The Rev. William Irving and the Maxwells of Kirkconnell) may have wished to demonstrate their political leanings in a non-too obvious manner. Is this a Jacobite Rose?
